How to choose the right needle for sewing knits + stretch fabric

When sewing knits and stretch fabrics, choosing the right needle will help prevent skipped stitches, fabric damage, and uneven seams. Here’s what you need to consider:

1. Needle Type

For stretchy and knit fabrics, you’ll need a needle that can penetrate the fabric without damaging the fibers. The two best options are:

• Ballpoint (Jersey) Needles – These have a slightly rounded tip that slides between the fabric fibers instead of piercing them, preventing snags and runs. Perfect for most knits like cotton jersey, interlock, and sweatshirt fabric.

• Stretch Needles – Designed for highly elastic fabrics like spandex, Lycra, and swimwear. They have a special scarf (an indentation above the eye) to prevent skipped stitches on stretchy fabrics and elastic. These will also work for regular knits.

2. Needle Size

The thickness of your fabric determines the right size needle for your project:

• Size 70/10 – Lightweight knits (e.g., sheer jersey, lightweight rayon knits)

• Size 80/12 – Medium-weight knits (e.g., T-shirt fabric, double knits)

• Size 90/14 – Heavy knits (e.g., ponte, sweater knits, scuba)

If you’re sewing elastic, which will typically be a bit thicker than your fabric, I recommend a mid-weight (80/12) needle.

3. Consider Twin Needles for Hemming

If you want a more professional-looking hems on stretchy fabric, try using a Stretch Twin Needle. This creates a double row of stitches on top and a zigzag underneath, mimicking a coverstitch machine.